Category: Hiking

A long, vigorous walk, usually on trails (footpaths), in the countryside.

  • Purim on the Trail: Hidden Miracles in the Backcountry

    Purim on the Trail: Hidden Miracles in the Backcountry

    If you’ve ever spent a night in the backcountry, you already understand Purim in a way most will not.
    It’s not the costume parade version, not the getting sloshed, and not the children’s sugar rush.
    It’s the deeper meaning beyond graggers and the mitzvot and megillah. Those are so important, but we’re an outdoor effort, so we’re going to make it about that.
    Megillat Ester reads like a palace drama set in Shushan. It’s full of royal decrees, political intrigue, banquests, betrayal, and ultimately, vindication. It’s urban and imperial.
    And yet, I would assert it is still a wilderness text.

    When You’re Far from Power

    Backcountry hiking begins with the decision to leave infrastructure behind for a time.
    You won’t have a cell signal or data service. There are no quick exits, and definitely not even a guarantee that the weather will hold and you will be safe.
    I think that is the position of the Jews we find in the Megillah, which consequentially, is perhaps the first book where they are specifically referred to as Jews. They are scattered across 127 provinces of the Persian Empire. They are far from their sovereign, exiled from their Temple, far from any control over their lives. They are living under someone else’s system, dependent on forces they cannot control.
    Anyone who has watched a weather front roll in faster than expected knows this feeling. No matter how carefully you plan, no matter how well prepared you may be, ultimately, you are small under the sky.
    Purim begins with precisely that same sense of scale.  Jews don’t even factor in to the start of the story until Mordecai refuses to bow to an officer of the court.

    The God Who isn’t Named

    If you have a “things rabbis will say about Purim drinking game,” invariably, it will be pointed out that God doesn’t appear in Esther’s story anywhere.
    I think we constantly point this out because there’s a degree of theological discomfort in that. Last year, Nezzie and I pitched on a ridge in the Maine mountains after running out of daylight, it’s actually a familiar feeling.
    In the backcountry, God isn’t any more obvious. There is wind, rocks, hunger, fatigue, beauty, risk, and so many other things. You don’t see providence the way you see a blue or white blaze on a tree. You infer it. You see patterns. You look back and realize a narrow escape down a ridge from a lightning store may have been the hidden hand of something, well, bigger.
    I think Purim trains us in that kind of noticing.
    God is concealed in coincidence, the right people in the right place at the right time. Circumstances turn favorable. The king’s insomnia, a conversation overhead, Esther’s improbable escalation to a place of prominence with the king…it’s all there.
    Concealment isn’t the same as absence, we learn. There’s a reason why we find God in the wilderness so often, because the subtleties of Creation stack up.

    Esther at the Trailhead

    There is a moment in the Megillah when Esther stands at a threshold. She has to decide whether to approach Ahashverosh without being directed to, which is a potentially capital offense.
    It’s kind of a trailhead moment.
    I don’t feel this on a weekend hike, but I do feel it on undertakings like a thru-hike of the John Muir Trail or the Appalachian Trail.
    Am I really doing this? you ask yourself as you sling your pack on your shoulders and leave the gravel parking lot behind you.
    Esther’s decision is not triumph, but rather, “if I die, I die.”
    That’s the language of risk!
    Most backcountry travellers understand this innately. Risk mitigation, training, preparation do not eliminate uncertainty. I don’t think hiking is courageous, not in any useful sense, but you move forward with a certain degree of surrender.

    Costumes and Camouflage

    I’m not one for the clamor of Purim. I also don’t like synthetic Halloween costumes recycled for this holiday. My daughter, Nezzie, makes her own costumes, which I love, avoiding the intrusion of the consumer mindset into the holiday.
    The deeper theme, of course, is concealment.
    In the wilderness, concealment is about survival. In Maine, snowshoe hares change color with each season. Seeds lie dormant underground for months before breaking open. The forest in the winter can look dead (unless you live in Maine with its surplus of pines), but it’s still teeming with life.
    Esther conceals her identity while Mordecai urges tactics and strategy from background. Even the divine presence is camouflaged in the folds of ordinary events.
    The backcountry teaches me the same lesson: what looks empty is often full. The white silence is still very much alive. There’s a whole ecology in play that isn’t immediately obvious.

    Joy After Survival

    When the danger is over in the Megillah, the response isn’t quiet relief, although I’m sure there was some. Our response is festive and celebratory, a time to exercise generosity and public joy.
    You can find the same joy, I think, standing atop Mount Katahdin at the end of the Appalachian Trail. Breaking through the treeline and to an open summit, there’s an earned sense of excitement and jubilation you don’t find at the foot of the mountain.
    You’ve got sore muscles, windburn, sunburn, but you’re going to have the best memories of it. The experience of the Jews in Persia, I imagine, was like that. We were vulnerable. There was a real threat to our survival, and just as today, the persistent realization that the outcome could always go differently, in no small part because we know it has.
    I don’t think the Megillah’s “light and darkness and joy and honor” is naive optimism, just post-storm rays of light peaking through.
    I do think the optimism is trite, to a certain degree. We do the “they tried to kill us, we survived, let’s eat” thing, but the subtext is that our celebrations are a therapuetic salve to our national soul. Sometimes, they really did kill us, and there was no hanging of Haman and his sons at the end. Either the killing stopped or they ran out of Jews to kill. The celebrations are our way through.
    And for me, that’s the same story. I get back to the trailhead on a Sunday. The next day, I’m back in “real life,” where I lose that connection I find in the wilderness. Reality sets in at the end of Purim.

    Reading the Megillah Under Open Sky

    What if we read the story outside this year?
    I mean, here in Maine, we still have a couple of feet of snow that hasn’t melted yet. It’s end of February, beginning of March. We still have more than a month of winter conditions.
    But imagine reading the Megillah by a headlamp. Hearing Haman’s name swallowed by wind instead of graggers and sactuary acoustics. Passing mishloach manot from pack to pack. On the Appalachian Trial or Pacific Crest Trail, which sees hikers embarking about now, giving gifts to those in need as a “trail angel.”
    Purim teaches about survival when we don’t control our circumstances, and the outdoors is always a master class in that truth.

    The Hidden Trail

    There’s a final wilderness connection that feels very Purim-like.
    Years and years ago, we did a two week ramble across the breadth of Wrangel-St. Elias National Park in Alaska. There was no trail to follow, just a nebulous route with a compass and a map. You had to look for terrain features, find identifiable points in the distance as a reference, and use a compass and maintain a pace count.
    The divine in the Megillah works much like that.
    Purim isn’t about obvious miracles. It’s about assuring us that even in exile, and especially in times of political chaos, when God’s name is nowhere on the page, there is still a story unfolding around us.
    On a long hike, where you’re following the gravel braids in a river, you only recognize the miracle after you’re at journey’s end.
    For me, that’s why Purim belongs outdoors.
    (In fairness, I think every Jewish holiday belongs outdoors)

  • When Wilderness Turns Deadly

    When Wilderness Turns Deadly

    This year, at the Maine Conference for Small Town Jewish Life, I’m teaching a course on basic orienteering.  If you follow this site, you know that I’m a big advocate for the Jewish outdoors.  The cheeky title of my class belies a commitment to making wilderness adventure safer for those who undertake it.

    If it weren’t for the twenty years I was an infantryman, a significant chunk of that spent as a “light fighter,” in either parachute or “air assault” units, I would not be as well-prepared for the wilderness as I am.  Our bread and butter, so to speak, as light infantrymen, was significant land navigation skills.  Additionally, with mountaineering courses and great experiences in Alaska when I was stationed there, the only place I’m sure I’m capable of being lost is at sea.

    Here in Maine in recent years, we’ve seen some tragic stories of wilderness loss.  Geraldine Largay died in Maine on her Appalachian Trail thru hike.  Known by the trail name Inchworm, she successfully made it from Harpers Ferry to Maine in April of 2013.  She was doing a semi-supported hike with the aid of her husband.  In late July of that year, she disappeared from the trail.

    People kindly describe her as an experienced hiker.  As a former nurse, she was definitely equipped to survive.  I’d argue, however, that the definition of “experienced hiker” includes enough basic orienteering to get yourself out of a jam.  She journaled for 26 days after she became lost.  She died just two miles from the Appalachian Trail.  If she had known which direction to go, and how to find that direction, she could have easily found herself back on trail.

    In this age of cell phones, we ought not confuse walking trails that are carefuly curated by trail teams with viable experience.  The Appalachian Trail has become a sort of hermetically-sealed, illusion of a wilderness experience…until you get to Maine.  Maine is still a place where you can get lost and, as evidenced by the two year gap between Largay’s disappearance and discovery, not be found.

    A New Tragedy

    Tim and Esther Keiderling
    Tim Keiderling and his daughter, Esther Keiderling. Photo Credit: Baxter State Park

    It’s too early to tell for sure what went wrong for Tim and Esther Keiderling, a father and daughter pair who set out to climb Mount Katahdin on Sunday, June 1st, and disappeared.  Both of their bodies have since been found.  Again, we’ve seen them described as “experienced hikers” who have hiked other mountains in the Adirondacks and the Alps.

    But again, I suspect “experienced hikers” means they hiked a number of well-marked trails, which does not connote any particular outdoor savvy.  Baxter State Park can be very unforgiving of navigation error, and with the combination of inclement weather, things can go pear-shaped very quickly.

    Remember The Rules

    Avoid going hiking alone (says a guy that never takes this advice).

    Bring everything that you need to survive.

    If your experience doesn’t match the conditions, stay home.

    Have recent first aid and CPR courses.

    Know how to use a map and compass.

    DON’T GO EXPECTING SOMEONE TO SAVE YOU IF YOU GET IN A JAM.  A cellphone feels like a lifeline in civilized country, but in the wilderness, it’s hit or miss.  If you want to use technology, there are GPS devices and rescue beacons that can help you, but even with those, have a plan.  Have emergency whistles and some sort of visual signaling device, like a mirror or a piece of highly visible fabric that can possibly even be seen through a forest canopy.

    Conclusion

    I’m not here to bash the dead.  Wilderness travel comes with risk.  I took an accidental dip in a river on a backcountry excursion in Alaska that almost killed me with hypothermia.  I’ve had falls.  I’ve never gotten lost, but I’ve lost the trail and had to find it again.  One time, I lost the trail so thoroughly that I shot a compass azimuth towards where I knew there was a road.  But the point is, I have the experience and training to get myself out of jams.

    Take care of yourselves, and be safe out there.

  • Autumn in Parc National de la Jacques Cartier

    Autumn in Parc National de la Jacques Cartier

    Where I live in Maine, for weekend adventures, I have a “can I get there and back again on a single tank of gas” philosophy.

    Autumn light through a strand of trees.

    As it turns out, just north of Quebec is a gem of a Canadian National Park: Parc National de la Jacques Cartier

    The area is a giant mountain plateau carved with deep valleys during the last ice age. The Jacques Cartier Massif is within the Laurentides, part of the Laurentian Mountains that extend from Quebec to Newfoundland. Coming from Maine with its drowned coast and northern Appalachians, it reminds me more of the Poconos than anything, with its deep valleys.

    There are over 100km of trails in this park, several of which lead out the river that lends the place its name.  There are both back and front country camping options, though you must get your permits in advance.  I arrived too late to start my backcountry hike, and the rangers at the desk offered me an option to pay $6 Canadian to stay in the parking lot overnight.  I chose to go back to Quebec City and see the city at night, sleep in a parking lot (my Jeep works well for overnight stealth camping), and start fresh the next day.  The park is around 30 minutes from the city.

    It is a very accessible park, more so if you have a high-clearance, four-wheel drive car or truck, as a dirt-and-gravel road takes you deeper into the park and some amenities further up the river, like stables and such.

    How to Get There (From the Park Website)

    Valley Sector

    From Quebec City:

    • Take Route 73 North (follow the signs for Saguenay) which will become Route 175 North. The entrance to the Valley sector is located at exit 182, Chemin du Parc-National. From downtown Quebec City to the entrance to the Valley sector, it is 40 km. Add to that 10 km to the Discovery and Visitors Centre.

    Public charging stations for electric vehicles

    Six Level 2 charging stations are available at the Discovery and Visitors Centre parking lot. Details

    Transportation Service

    A transportation service is offered by Quatre Natures from Quebec City.

    Additional information

    Traffic coordinates

    Exit 182, Chemin du Parc-National
    Route 175
    Stoneham and Tewkesbury

    GPS:
    47° 06′ 30” N
    71° 20′ 50” W

    The park is open year-round. For better planning of your activities, take note of the period of operation of the services according to the sector.

    Valley Sector

    Opening of the National
    Park Trail From mid-May to the first snow: accessible up to km 33, depending on weather conditions
    From the first snow to mid-May: accessible to the Discovery and Visitors Centre (km 10)
    From the first snowfall, the Chemin de la Vallée is open only to the Discovery and Visitors Centre (km 10) which is open every day of the year, with the exception of December 25 and January 1.

    These dates are subject to change depending on weather conditions. We strongly advise you to contact us at 418 848-3169, ext. 6 to ensure the state of the road.

    Discovery and Visitors Centre

    Services: reception and information, equipment rental, general store, first aid service

    Periods:

    • November 1, 2024 to May 8, 2025
      • Daily, 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
    • May 9 to June 12, 2025
      • Monday to Thursday, 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
      • Friday, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.
      • Saturday, 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.
      • Sunday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
    • June 13 to August 24, 2025
      • Daily, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
    • August 25 to October 13, 2025
      • Monday to Thursday, 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
      • Friday, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.
      • Saturday, 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.
      • Sunday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
    • October 14 to December 1, 2025
      • Daily, 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

    At all times, it is mandatory to purchase your daily access online before your arrival. Be sure to keep proof with you at all times.

    Shoulder sector (fishing in accommodation at the Devlin cabins and the Pavillon du lac à l’Épaule)

    Sautauriski and Jumeau sectors (day fishing)

    Shoulder sector (winter accommodation at Devlin chalets)

     

  • Backpacking Nagano Prefecture in Japan

    Backpacking Nagano Prefecture in Japan

    A flower of snow
    On your shoulder seems to say:
    Welcome to Nagano!

    Keiko Yoshida – Nagano City

    My middle daughter, Avi, is a student at Temple University’s Tokyo campus.  She’s entering her junior year, but this was the first I’ve had the opportunity to come visit her in Setagaya.  Going inland proved to be a wise move after my arrival in Japan.  We lucked out and had a perfect evening on Enoshima, but a named typhoon was descending upon Tokyo, and we wanted to maximize our walking tours.

    Getting to Karuizawa Station

    We booked bus tickets from the Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal to Karuizawa.  The bus ride offered an interesting experience of Tokyo neighborhoods on its way out of town, and the ride into the mountains, with views of Mt. Miyogi and other named peaks was fantastic.

    There are three ways to get to Karuizawa from Tokyo: train, bus, or car.  Bus is the cheapest, between $3-20 USD.  Train is the shortest, especially if you take Japanese Railways Shinkansen (the famed “bullet train”).

    Karuizawa is itself a lovely resort town in the mountains.  From Karuizawa Station alone, you can see nearby ski facilities.  It’s also home to fantastic outlet mall shopping, and plenty of restaurants.  The Shiraito Waterfall and Mount Asama are both worth the visit.

    A view of Kuruizawa including the original train station in background.

    Getting around Nagano Prefecture

    The primary train around the prefecture is the Shinonoi Line, operated by East Japan Railway Company (or JR East).  We could have taken the bullet train from Karuizawa to Nagano, and then the Shinonoi Line, but we instead took the local line from Karuizawa Station to the station in Shinonoi, and transferred to the train that took us to Matsumoto.  This trip took around two hours, but it was worth it.

    Later, we took the same line all the way from Matsumoto to Nagano.  In all cases, the local trains will cost you no more than $5-35 USD.

    A spectacular view from the Sinonoi Line in Nagano Prefecture.

    Matsumoto

    Matsumoto is home of Matsumoto Castle, built by Ishikawa Norimasa and his son, Yasunaga in 1593-1594.  They were daimyo of Matsumoto under the Tokugawa shogunate.  It is a wonderful tourist destination, with its shopping and cultural experiences.  The castle is inexpensive to tour ($5 USD), but be prepared for hour-long wait times.

    Being good Mainers, to our surprise, we found Mt. Desert Island Ice Cream.  The flavors were a little bit different than what we’ve had before in Bar Harbor, but the staff were pleasantly surprised to have visitors from Maine.  I ordered a strawberry sorbet, and Avi ordered a peach combination which wasn’t to her liking.

    Mt. Desert Island Ice Cream is not under kosher supervision.  Cholov Yisroel is impossible to find in Japan, but Japan’s milk is wholly produced by dairy cows.  I doubt Rabbe Feinstein’s leniency applies to Japanese dairy.

    Nagano

    Our overnight destination in Nagano Prefecture was the city of Nagano itself.  After a day in Matsumoto and enjoying the lovely train ride from Matsumoto to Nagano, we arrived in time to check into our hostel, Moritomizu Backpackers and Sharehouse, a quaint little place close to Nagano Station.  It was very low cost (around $50 USD a night for two of us), and within walking distance of many things.  The room was nothing special, futons, pillows, sheets, etc.  Common showers and bathrooms on the second floor.  A common dining room on the ground floor with a guitar, a mix of English and Japanese games and books, and tea/coffee service.  Sorting your trash is required.

    There are many attractions in Nagano.  We focused our morning on the walk to Zenkoji Temple. There is a national park with snow monkeys that is a popular draw.   Skiing in the winter is fantastic.

    Komoro

    Our final destination in Nagano Prefecture before returning to Karuizawa Station and ultimately Tokyo was Komoro.  Komoro has a small little amusement park, the saddest little zoo imaginable, and the grounds of castle ruins.  It is a beautiful area with the convergence of two mountain ranges and plenty of scenic views.

    We were really fortunate to see two men training in Japanese archery, kyudo.  The cost to tour the ruins and zoo was $5 USD.

    Kosher

    Kosher in Japan is difficult.  Given that if you’re a Jewish traveler in the country, you probably came through an airport in Tokyo, you’ll need to stock up on your trip in the city before you head elsewhere, as it’s hard to find hecshered products outside of Tokyo, Kobe, or Okinawa.

    National Abazu, a chain of three grocery stores in Tokyo, carries many imported hechshered goods.  Chabad of Japan in Tokyo also has a mini market.

    In Kobe, the community of Kansai can help with kosher food.

    Brian Kresge is a rabbinical student with the Pluralistic Rabbinical Seminary and president of Congregation Beth Israel in Bangor, Maine.

  • Memorial Day

    Memorial Day

    When my unit returned from its Operation Iraqi Freedom mobilization, I had a conversation with my friend, Jimmy. I came home early due to a custodial matter, but we stayed in touch for the duration of the tour. He did well, he really came alive in Baghdad. He wanted me to volunteer and come with him for the Afghanistan mission with another unit from the Pennsylvania Guard. For a variety of family reasons, I could not, but I wish I would have.  He was a good friend and a cunning warrior.

    Shortly after his return from Afghanistan—we hadn’t reconnected—after wrecking his vehicle, while waiting for responders, Jimmy took his sidearm and took his own life.  There’s been a lot of speculation in the decade-plus that’s followed.  Many think PTSD.

    I’m never sure about that diagnosis.  Jimmy was a loud, obnoxious, prior-service Marine with a heart of gold buried deep.  I often share the story of what a soft touch he was with the citizens of New Orleans when we helped out in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina.

    I think that in many cases, it’s the return to the mundane that does many soldiers in.  The sharp contrast between The Most Important Thing You Will Ever Do In Your Life that comes with wartime service and the rest of your world after.  It was something my late, great-uncle, a Marine veteran of Iwo Jima and Guadalcanal, warned me of, the sense that the only noble purpose he would ever have boils down in his own words, “in how many Japs I killed and how many friends I lost until we won.”   He found the truth:  a life well-lived and enjoyed, being a husband and a father, far surpassed the horrors of war in terms of nobility.

    What dignifies and reflects your belief in God? This question posed by my great uncle was expressed somewhat differently, but that’s what I took away from his letters to me when I was in infantry school.

    I think Jimmy couldn’t detach his assumed value from being wound up in his martial professions.  With the possibility of consequences in the Guard and in his job as a police officer for drunk driving, I don’t think he could see his worth extending beyond the immediate troubles.  I wish he could have asked any one of his good friends for help.

    And while we honor him, Memorial Day ends up being a paean to the virtues of sacrifice in combat.  Jimmy may be mentioned, but there’s always going to be an asterisk.  He’s fodder for anti-suicide campaigns, but in that he’s only a pitiable figure, not a resolute combat leader that bravely led successful missions and brought his men home safely.

    *

    She sobbed in the passenger seat of my car.

    I drove her to a town an hour away where she faced a hearing for driving under the influence.  We managed to get things transferred to the Lancaster County Veterans Court.

    Rabbi Jack Paskoff of Shaarai Shomayim in Lancaster pushed me towards this a few years before, in a role as a “veteran mentor.”  He knew I was looking to act on the open wound that was Jimmy’s suicide, and my own struggles with overseas service.  A local judge, whose wife was a member of the congregation, was standing up a diversion program specifically for veterans in our county, an opportunity to give them a second chance rather than saddle them with felonies and misdemeanors that would follow them.  All a veteran had to do was have an honorable discharge; combat veterans were not the sole recipients of this legal largesse.  As a mentor, I was like an AA sponsor, helping them stay on a path of sobriety, helping them with a restorative justice project that was required, and if they had license suspensions or probationary sanctions, helping them deal with those.

    I had some qualms about giving people who served in peacetime a chance when there were veterans whose criminality was directly associated with their service, until I met this young woman.  As more female and trans veterans came through the program, it became obvious that a court modeled after drug court or a 12-step program was not going to be sufficient for helping those with Military Sexual Trauma.  She never deployed, but she suffered greatly at the hands of her fellow Marines.  This program was never going to help this young woman so long as it forced her to relive the trauma of her rape, the details of which are only ever her story to tell.  And what was done to her cost her so much, including a presence in her children’s’ lives.

    That day that she cried in my car, I worried that she’d opt out on living in the same way so many of my friends have.  Today, she is doing well.  She is health and happy, and it’s not because of anything the system has done for her.  It’s her own strength, and reuniting with her community and family.

    That time I spent with her was deeply affecting.  I decided after that I would strive to make a difference as a non-commissioned officer, especially after I moved from infantry, which was all male at the time, to logistics.  I took my final break in service from 2020-2022, during which a former soldier contacted me about her own rape, and the insufficiency of the Maine National Guard’s response was exposed by the Bangor Daily News.  When I came back in the service in 2022, I was told during my initial counseling in my unit that some felt “I had betrayed the Guard” in both speaking to the paper and testifying before the state legislature about the culture of misogyny I witnessed.  In many ways, I wear that like a badge of honor.  Very few male soldiers speak up or spoke up about what they’ve seen or done themselves, or their own status as survivors of sexual assault.  It’s something I see improving in terms of training and a “see something, say something” culture in uniform.

    During my testimony, I told a highly personal experience of my assault, when during a hazing ritual 30 years ago at the 101st, I was subject to an act of a sexual nature, causing humiliation and bleeding.  I hadn’t spoken of that in 25 years.  I even became close with my team leader, who did it.  It’s a strange, horrible thing, and I am glad our military culture is reshaping itself.  We’re trying to drive a stake through the heart of the “good old boy” system, and it’s working.

    Nevertheless, I still see the cost to people still harmed by toxic culture every drill weekend.  I hear it in the voices of survivors who will never see justice.

    I’ve become treasurer of The Sisters in Arms Center, Maine’s only female veteran focused transitional living.  We’re working hard to provide a home for female and trans veterans, but we’re also trying all the time to expand our services to survivors of Military Sexual Trauma.  Most of my work centers on budgeting and fundraising.  The heavy lift is done by our Executive Director, who also is a commissioned member of the Maine Army National Guard.  It’s purposeful work, and while I hate that there’s a need for it, it’s not a legislative priority, in spite of the attention on it for over a decade, and funding is in short supply.  Outpatient services from the VA are difficult.  The reporting system, to my mind, is still broken, especially in the Guard or Reserves.

    We held a well-attended viewing of a documentary about Vanessa Guillén at Congregation Beth Israel in Bangor.  I invited speakers from the military and agencies.  The needle moves slowly.  I worry it will be lost when the committed leaders with immediate command of soldiers move on to new roles.  It’s an institutional change that has to be embraced in the same way we treat each generation as having left Egypt themselves.

    We don’t even mention survivors of MST on Memorial Day.  Their service cost them so much, and yet, we’re squeamish about raising the subject.

    *

    These are among the reasons why I struggle with the ceremonies of Memorial Day.  Whether it’s the somber pomp and circumstance of a parade or memorial service, or the festive beginning of summer motif, I feel like there’s so much that was lost to remember.

    It’s that the Reservist or Guard member that deployed, fought, and bled in a Baghdad neighborhood and goes back to an unremarkable career as at best box store middle management, drinking himself to death and driving loved ones away.

    It’s that a woman who was gang raped and driven from the service by the trauma has to watch people who assault her honored with awards and retirement ceremonies.

    You can only hear “freedom isn’t free” by a young essayist so many times before you realize our memorials are as superficial as our concern for an all-volunteer force that is still immersed in a military action that started 23 years ago.  People are often surprised to find out soldiers are still deploying to active combat zones on the same Congressional Authorization for Use of Military Force that kicked off our invasion of Iraq.

    And it’s that much more acute when it comes on the heels of Yom HaZikaron.  Israel puts us to shame with how it memorializes its war dead and the cost to its veterans.

    Every year, I find it harder and harder to abide the way we do Memorial Day.  So I retreat to the woods, and dwell on it by myself standing atop a mountain or by a wilderness brook.

    This year, I’m trying something new. I wrote my thoughts on how Judaism has a salve for moral injury a few years ago, an idea I continue to refine.  Now I’m combining it with enrollment at the Pluralistic Rabbinical Seminary in pursuit of smicha.

    Years and years ago, I finished daf yomi at Siyum HaShas in 2005. I tried my hand at hadar with Chabad Lubavitch, but the movement wasn’t for me any more than the life of a shaliach, though it took me fifteen years to figure that out.  While Leah and I maintain a kosher home and live very Jewishly, inhabiting leadership roles within our community, affixing a label to what kind of Jews we are is less important than producing measurable results in our Jewish community and its intersection with the local non-Jewish world. With the influence and help of two non-Orthodox rabbis I hold in high regard, I was accepted into PRS’ program this year. I want to work on combining the concepts of hitbodedut and the answer Judaism has for trauma in ways that help Jews and non-Jews alike.

    We have the tools in our tradition to do this with. Gemilut chassadim, tzedakah, study of Torah, or a combination of these things “avert the decree” during the Days of Awe, but they also carry manifest obligations.  We are explicitly told what we must do in the rhetorical question posed by a High Holy Days haftarah, “is this the fast I seek?”

    There’s Rambam, too, with his semi-Aristotelian “golden mean.”

    Those substantive tools and concepts may help others get through trauma, in no small part because our traditions have been shaped by millennia of hard times.  I hope to bring that to bear as part of my capstone project, expanding on Nachman of Breslov’s hitbodedut in a manner tightly wound with our tradition and ritual to help others.  There is so much work to do to ply our tradition to sexual assault, which is problematic when it comes to rape—the penalty in Torah is unfathomable today—but October 7th reminds us it is not new to us.  How we heal is so important.

    *

    On the clearest days, with the bluest of skies, and the most aesthetic punctuation of fluffy, white clouds, I stood atop Sunday River Whitecap in Maine and cried.

    The wind was blowing strong.  I adjusted my hat so it fit snugly against my scalp.  From the top of this beautiful peak, I could see the White Mountains in New Hampshire and Maine, the Mahoosuc Range, the valley carved by the Androscoggin River, and the nearby Sunday River ski resort.  It was so beautiful.

    This year I picked the Grafton Notch Loop for my Memorial Day weekend outing.  I invited others, but everyone had other plans or limitations.  Ultimately, this was fine.  I was grateful for the solitude.

    I remembered something from Man is Not Alone by Abraham Joshua Heschel.

    We can never sneer at the stars, mock the dawn, or scoff at the totality of being.  Sublime grandeur evokes unhesitating, unflinching awe.  Away from the immense, cloistered in our own concepts, we may scorn and revile everything.  But standing between earth and sky, we are silenced by the sight.

    Today I feel residual awe.  Today I feel like the world was created for me.  And if it was created for me, it was created for Jimmy.  It was created for every survivor of MST.

    How is there space for self-revulsion and self-hatred when we realize we’re a part of a beautiful Creation?

    I know it’s very reductionist to assume that if I could have stood Jimmy on a mountain top on a clear day, that he’d still be with us.  Nor could a mossy forest floor undo the damage done by rape.

    Finding a Jewish answer to these things is possible.  I know time spent outdoors, reconnecting with natural beauty, is a catalyst for finding goodness within ourselves.  Perhaps I can come one day soon to Memorial Day and feel like I have a contribution in the face of the things I hate.

    Until then, I will honor my friends by saying their names into the wind upon a mountain.

    Brian is President of Congregation Beth Israel in Bangor (Maine’s oldest synagogue), Treasurer for the Sisters in Arms Center in Augusta, a former paratrooper and transportation manager in the Maine Army National Guard, and a director of software development for a healthcare provider.  He’s also an author, musician, and now a rabbinical student!  He lives in Winterport, Maine with his wife, Leah, and their daughter, Nezzie.

  • Backcountry with Dogs

    Backcountry with Dogs

    Knowing Where to Go

    When I was stationed in Alaska, my ex-wife and I adopted a dog from the Anchorage shelter.  We named him D’Artagnan.  He was a Husky mix, former sled dog.  He was lovable, energetic, and old.

    I took him everywhere, with the exception of Denali National Park, where he was not allowed.  He came with, including on a flight into the Wrangell-St. Elias backcountry for a long, cross-country ramble.  He came with for shorter trips, like Crow Pass from Girdwood to Eagle River, where he proved problematic when it came to scaling ladders, even if he could handle complex glacial river crossings elsewhere.  When he passed away after a good life, I was broken-hearted.

    My Labrador Retriever, Max, went everywhere “good”.  When we were stationed in California, we really became experts at finding where backpacking with dogs is legal.  Yosemite and Sequoia / King’s Canyon were out, but the Emigrant Wilderness in Stanislaus National Forest was a fantastic, dog-friendly place to go.  Closer to our home in Monterey, the Los Padres National Forest offered excellent backcountry opportunities for people and canines.

    When Max and I moved back east, we made trips to the Adirondacks, to Shenandoah National Park, and places in Pennsylvania and the Catskills.

    Max has long-since passed.  Of our two dogs now, Bramble and Nanook, Bramble is the adventurous hiker.  Bramble enjoys rambles in Acadia National Park, so long as they don’t involve climbing ladders.  He loves Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument as much as I do.  There are numerous public lands we visit and love here in Maine, both on foot and by canoe.

    There are a few epic trips I’ve made that necessitate leaving the dogs at home with my wife and kids, but for the most part, I try to tailor trips that include Bramble.  For one, they ease the loneliness of what is for me almost always a solitary endeavor.  Two, having a dog in your life imparts serious commitments.  You want them by your side at home, where we expect their domestic nature to kick in.  Why deny them the free-ranging experience of their lupine ancestors?

    It can feel, at times, like your destinations in the backcountry are limited by the presence of your dog.  I look at it this way…often you get lesser-travelled destinations that afford the one quality we all often look for—more general solitude.  The Emigrant Wilderness, for instance, never had the crowds of Yosemite, but arguably similar in terms of granite moonscapes, snowpack, and alpine meadows.

    I don’t whine about this.  People deserve backcountry spaces where dogs are not allowed, like Baxter State Park.  And let’s face it, there are more than enough people with dogs who don’t obey leash laws, or they don’t clean up after themselves, that we should understand tight regulation around their presence in the backcountry.  The bad apples continuously ruin this for us more than any other factor.

    Photo by Patrick Hendry on Unsplash

    The B.A.R.K. Principles

    • Bag your pet’s poop
    • Always leash your pet
    • Respect wildlife
    • Know where you can go.

    These are very simple rules to live by, but you’re trying to ensure that as you have a good time, you’re not ruining someone else’s good time.   You need to know your dog.  If it’s aggressive, if it’s a constant barker, if it’s not leash-trained…stay home.  These are not good fits for the wilderness.

    I learned my lesson with D’Artagnan in particular very quickly.  I left him off-leash on the Johnson Trail on the Kenai Peninsula in Alaska, and he ended up with a face full of porcupine quills.  The last thing you want is your dog agitating wildlife.  Some of it can hurt your dog, but more likely they can disturb vital animal habitats.  It’s also a matter of profound consideration for other hikers.  As much as I love dogs, nothing upsets me more than someone that thinks just because their dog is mostly under voice command and friendly, that I want them approaching me and sniffing me.

    Dog Gear

    Photo by Alexander Paul on Unsplash

    Your dog has needs in the backcountry, too.

    First and foremost, you need a bowl for your dog.  We filter our water on the eastern seaboard and other places because of giardia.  Did you know your dog can contract this parasitic protozoa as well?  Your dog is also vulnerable to leptospirosis, blue-green algae, cryptosporidium, and pythiosis…all things we filter water for our own drinking.  Bring water for your dog. Filter water for your dog.

    Since my dog refuses to sleep anywhere but right on top of me, I don’t bring him a dog sleeping bag or pad, except for during winter excursions.  I’ll augment with a fleece throw.

    You also should up your dog’s feeding amounts, because they, like you, will likely be burning more calories.  This means carrying extra weight.  My dog carries his own with his own little pannier set.

    For long canoe trips or gunkholing, I put my dogs in a life-vest.  I’m a strong swimmer, they’re strong swimmers, but they, like humans, get tired.  If I’m not trying to swim the English Channel, neither is my dog.  A lot of folks take for granted that as instinctual swimmers, there’s no issue here, but that is simply not true.  Make the investment.

  • Backpacking with Autistic Children

    Backpacking with Autistic Children

    Backpacking is a really exciting experience for a lot of kids.  For children with Autism Spectrum Disorder (ASD), it can be fraught with anxiety, as it involves multiple changes in routine, unfamiliar environment, and a significant amount of sensory overload.

    When my daughter, who hadn’t yet been diagnosed with ASD, joined me on a hike to Maine’s Cutler Coast, she found camping at a spot overlooking the ocean to be awful, as scenic as it was.  As it turned out, the constant noise of the surf was simply too much for her.  Creekside or noisy riverside campsites similarly work on her nerves.  The tranquil waters along the East Branch Penobscot River, on the other hand, do not pose a problem.  The silence of winter camping is especially attractive to her.

    We’ll delve into the ways we can make a backpacking trip successful for your ASD child.  Your mileage may vary, of course, but we’ll start with what tips we anecdotally know work.

    Before the Trip

    First, let’s say this: I am accustomed to seat-of-your pants, throw a bag in the back of the car and go style trips.

    This does not work with my child.  She requires at least a week’s lead time.  My older, adult child was flexible, able to pop in the car and head from our home in Pennsylvania to a nearby Appalachian Trail entry point, to Shenandoah National Park, Assateague, or even the Adirondacks with little notice.  We did it all, and I was spoiled by her agility.

    On the other hand, the more meticulous planning I have to put in for my youngest child often yields a less tumultuous trip.  A late May excursion in the High Peaks that we were ill-prepared for was just another thing for my older kid.  We adapted and overcame.  My younger child found getting her feet wet on a beaver dam traversal along the International Appalachian Trail in Maine to be completely debilitating, even though she crossed a wide river just a half hour prior.

    Informed by these experiences, this is what works for us.

    Create a Narrative

    In the days and weeks leading to your excursion, create a narrative—with pictures or with words—that captures the start-to-finish elements of your backpacking trip.  Where you park, what time you’ll arrive, how far you’ll hike to camp, what the campsite will be like.  Make note of the sensory experiences they’ll find, like a noisy river, windy conditions at the top of a mountain, muddy water seeping into their shoes.  What will we do in the event of a downpour?  Or a thunderstorm?  Go over this narrative with them often before your trip starts.

    Predictability for a child with autism is imperative.  We go through this day to day just in school.  It doesn’t end just because we deem an activity to be recreational.

    Put it on the Calendar

    We don’t actually have a calendar in our household, but daily reminders, in conjunction with going over your narrative, present your backpacking trip in a concrete way.  We do have a chalkboard in our living room which my wife assiduously puts the daily school “special” (like music, art, gym, etc.) which helps our kid visualize the looming change in routine.

    Do Not Wash Comfort Items

    In our household, it’s “Pink Blankie.”   If you note the picture from our most recent winter excursion, Pink Blankie™ is clutched even during the hike through oodles of snow.

    This little thing is often of such comfort to our precious little girl.  There are times when it smells absolutely terrible, but knowing what it does for her makes it easy for us to fight for the watery eyes it induces.

    Extensively Plan Meals and Snacks Ahead of Time

    In an age when people really emphasize ultra-light backpacking, when I go with my daughter, my pack is assured to be heavy.  The largest reason for this is that her favorite camping meal is condensed tomato soup from a can.  It is the only thing I can be certain she will eat.  Some children (not mine) like things like gummies because they like oral stimulation.  She’ll nosh on Goldfish.  Yes, I know they are not hechshered, but the whales are not something she’ll eat.

    My daughter eating tomato soup

    On the Trip

    Let a Weary Kid Take Breaks at a Predictable Interval

    It’s so important for your child to know when a rest break, especially one involving a pre-determined snack, is going to take place.  Let them know it’s coming at time.  “We’ve been walking for twenty minutes since our last break, we will break again in ten minutes,” with a similar warning again in five minutes.

    The break can be timed, too.  It’s important to set expectations at all points.

    Audio/Video Device with Noise Cancelling Headphones

    Some children without autism struggle with sleeping in the woods.  My child does best with her iPad, which yes, we schlepped, and a few familiar films downloaded to Disney+ or Netflix for watching.  This lets them block out the crickets, the beaver activity, the hail against your rainfly, or rumbling thunder.

    Recount Exciting Parts of Your Adventure and their Bravery

    One of the things I do in the age of these electronic devices that are so ubiquitous is give my child the space and time to recount their key achievements on the trail.  On a trip this past summer to Katahdin Woods and Waters, our hike began with a crossing of Wassataquoik Stream.  This is a day ending in “Y” for most backpackers, but for my wee child, it was The Most Exciting Thing Ever.  So I recorded her reaction to her achievement after we made it across.  This will always be one of my cherished memories, too.

    Don’t Refuse to Bail

    The most important thing is your own flexibility with regards to your plans.  It’s very easy for any child’s willingness to go on these excursions to take a beating if things go sideways.  It’s that much more debilitating for children who have no out from sensory overload and other experiences.  For my daughter, one trip where her feet were wet for a little longer than she expected threw a wrench in her ability to enjoy herself.  I committed to turning around after only one night on a multi-day excursion.

    Your child’s well-being comes before your trip, and the reality is, children (and adults) with autism deserve just as much as anyone else to be able to enjoy our wilderness.  With a little bit of consideration, you can enrich your children’s lives with the great outdoors.

    My daughter in front of Mount Katahdin.

  • New Permit Requirements on AT in Shenandoah

    New Permit Requirements on AT in Shenandoah

    Starting this month, you will now be required to buy a permit at Recreation.gov in order to complete the Shenandoah National Park portion of the Appalachian Trail.  The previous system, where you could obtain a paper permit either at the website or at locations within the park, no longer exists.

    For more information about Shenandoah’s backpacking regulations, you may visit here: https://www.nps.gov/shen/planyourvisit/backcountry-regulations.htm

    For now, the purchase of permits may be made here: https://www.recreation.gov/permits/4675336

    This also adds a cost to this permit:

    $15 park entrance fee – if you have a military, veteran, or Golden Eagle pass
    $9 recreation fee
    $6 backcountry camping fee

  • The Best Thru-Hiking Videos

    The Best Thru-Hiking Videos

    User-created thru-hiking videos are a great way to get through winter, even as early-bird Appalachian Trail folks gear up to head out as early as February.

    We’ve rounded up some of the best ones we’ve found on YouTube.  Some are feature length, others are shorter but equally impactful.

    We haven’t included videos from the hiker Dixie.  She gets more than enough traffic on her own, and we didn’t find the quality to be the quasi-cinematic experience we were looking for.  She does a great job reviewing gear and doing things for first-timers, but it’s not hitting our criteria.  We also didn’t include the Crawfords.  We reviewed their book on this site, and there are very self-absorbed behaviors, including his use of drones, that we highly discourage along the trail.  No need to give them more of an audience.

    Shepherd

    Australian Hiker Brad McCartney is a personal favorite. On the trail, he’s known as Shepherd. He approaches thru-hiking with an indefatigable attitude. He seldom talks about gear (but he does review it, check his website www.bikehikesafari.com). It’s all about his experiences on the hike.

    Shepherd has done the Triple Crown, and he’s recorded videos of his attempt to ride his bike from Alaska to Argentina. The journey isn’t yet complete, but it’s still incredible.

    When you do visit his website, note that he’s documented his experiences on a variety of hikes, even if he doesn’t have complete videos of them. Pictures and experiences on the Triple Crown and the Te Araroa Trail in New Zealand are an awesome bedtime read.

    Walking Home

    As Mainers, this is one of our favorites. A documentary created for Boothbay public television follows a father and son from Boothbay in their trip from Georgia to Maine. They’re joined by UMaine alumna Emily Leonard, AKA “Black Bear” (who has written her own book about her trail experiences). It’s a great effort that couples progress on the trail with the various concepts along the way.

    Jupiter

    Hiker “Jupiter” is a very mellow dude, the only “ultralight” hiker we have in our platter of videos. He conveys positivity as he tackles many trails. His channel on YouTube is worth watching, but we’ve included his monumental achievement, hiking the Eastern Continental Trail, from Canada to the Florida Keys.

    From REI: Paul’s Boots

    This video tugs at the heart, though it’s perhaps the shortest video on this list. After watching the video, you can ruminate on just what our national trail system means to so many people, connecting our population to wonderful wilderness experiences.

    Paul was an Australian who didn’t live to fulfill his dream of hiking the Appalachian Trail, but a trail community of strangers honored him in an amazing away, showing the connective tissue wilderness can be for humankind.

    Some Dutch Folks Hike the PCT

    Set to a stirring soundtrack lifted wholesale from video games and Hollywood, an affable couple from Europe thru-hikes the Pacific Crest Trail in a year of wildfires. They’re sweet people, fun to watch, even if they abuse Copperplate fonts.

    Finding Brothers

    Australians and New Zealanders seem to love our trails. Who can blame them? In this fun video, two blokes from New Zealand, an Australian, and a fella from Boston walk the Pacific Crest Trail. Great video quality, some interesting experiences.

    There are so many more documentary videos on YouTube.

    On one hand, we gripe when we encounter folks on the trails, narrating their experiences into a smartphone camera. They crowd the vistas, gabbing in a way that many of us are already trying to get away from when we hike to begin with.

    On the other hand, not everyone can break away from life for a thru-hike. For many, especially during this never-ending pandemic, even breaking away for a long section hike or trip seems out of reach. Given that, we’re grateful these folks took the time to collect the footage and then edit into long-form videos for our enjoyment.

    Do you have a trail video that resonated with you? Share in the comments.

  • A Spring Trip to a Bold Coast

    A Spring Trip to a Bold Coast

    We were looking for a spring destination, and we found an excellent trip along Maine’s dramatic Bold Coast.

    Situated between Milbridge and Calais in Maine is a not-so-hidden gem of public lands along Maine’s Bold Coast. Hidden along the Bold Coast Scenic Byway, the Cutler Coast Public Lands are a fantastic backpacking, hiking, or off-roading destination.

    Spring on the Bold Coast is a “can’t miss” adventure, whether you’re a day hiker or a backpacker.

    Our Spring Bold Coast Itinerary

    Nezzie (my adventurous, 6 year-old daughter) and I started off on the Sunday morning of Patriots Day weekend on the Coastal Trail, a 1.4 mile hike out of a parking lot on Route 191 in the village of Cutler.

    Nezzie is surrounded by mossy forest.
    Nezzie is surrounded by a forest floor blanketed in moss.

    The trails in these public lands are not strenuous, though there are some steep and rocky sections. There are high cliffs that can make it somewhat dangerous for reckless, younger children. In wet conditions, some portions of the coastal trail could be extremely treacherous. Fair warning, too, that in May and June, black flies could be off the hook, especially in the bog-ridden inland sections of Cutler Coast.

    One of many stunning views on the Coastal Trail
    Steep climbs lead to rewarding views.

    Nez still isn’t acclimated to longer trips, or backpack camping, for that matter, so we opted for a shorter trip. We took the Coastal Trail to the Black Point Brook Cutoff trail. The Black Point Campsite sits astride a bluff overlooking Black Point Cove. It has a terrific view, but is only suited for a small tent or hammock pitch. There is a nearby open toilet, which is disgusting but necessary in this high-use area. Our hike still came in just under 7 miles. Not bad for spring on the Bold Coast!

    The view from our tent on Black Point
    The view from our tent on Black Point

    The Inland Trail reroutes around a beaver bog. Still in the throes of mud season, we could not avoid boot-sucking spots on the trail. Long stretches of the trail are on well-tended, elevated planks. The views, though not as dramatic as the coast, are typical Maine. Though we only saw numerous bird species, moose and beaver are not uncommon.

    Spring mud makes the Bold Coast fun.
    Well-tended boardwalks make the inland portions of this trail significantly better.

    Things You Should Know

    This trail system is not a place you will find isolation. In spite of being far Down East, the trail is quite popular. If you plan on camping in the backcountry, the sites are first-come, first-serve, and have limited capacity. You should consider a mid-week trip instead of a weekend trip. This April trip still saw the parking lot almost filled to capacity, with backpackers disappointed that we already claimed Black Point.

    It’s no surprise to Mainers, but you should be mindful of your cellular service in Cutler Coast Public Lands. I received text message notices from Bell Canada. Lest I incur international roaming charges, I placed my phone in airplane mode.

    Additional Reading

    Getting There

    Most tourists will only come from points south. We take US 1A N out of Bangor, towards Calais, and take ME 9E in Eddington. From there, we travel ME 9 E, head on ME 192 S to Machias, pick up US 1 N until ME 191 S. The trailhead will be on the right after 16 miles.